Growing tomatoes upside down in the self-watering Revolution Planter may eliminate cutworms and other pests

One problem that often occurs is blossom end rot. The fruits look normal on the top, but when you go to pick them there is a large, unappetizing black spot on the blossom end of the tomato. This is not a disease,  but is caused by a lack of calcium in the fruit. One way to avoid this is to make sure you water and mulch regularly. Even moisture will also help keep the fruit from splitting. Using "The Red Mulch" will both help retain moisture around the root zone, and also suppress weeds. The bright red color has even been proven to boost tomato production by as much as 20%.

The two most harmful fungal diseases that attack tomato plants are fusarium and verticillim wilt. Infected plants display yellowing and wilting of the older leaves about midsummer. The yellowing moves up the stem until the whole plant is dead. Unfortunately, there are no controls which are effective against either fungus. Instead, gardeners should be proactive and practice crop rotation and plant only wilt-resistant tomato varieties which are designated by a VF after the cultivar name. A plastic mulch such as The Red Mulch, will also help reduce the splashing of the fungal spores from the soil.
Note: Do not plant tomatoes or any of their relatives (eggplant, peppers or potatoes) in an area that has been infected for at least 4 to 6 years.

Fruits that are allowed to touch the ground can also develop fruit rot from anthracnose and early and late blight.  Stake or cage your tomato plants so that they never contact the soil and always leave enough space between your tomatoes for air circulation so that the foliage will dry off more rapidly.

Here is a photo of the Tomato Success Kit growing on my back deck. Self-watering containers like the Tomato Success Kit or Earthbox Gardening System supply constant moisture, which can help to prevent blossom end rot and splitting. And as you can see--tomato plants seem to love it!

Sometimes one problem can cause another. If your plants have lost their leaves from a wilt disease and the fruits are exposed to the sunlight, they may develop sunscald. This in turn can set up a secondary invasion by other decay-causing organisms. Covering the exposed fruits with straw or another loose covering may help protect them from the damaging sunlight.

Do you have huge, towering tomato plants that don't produce more then a few tomatoes all season? You may be applying too much nitrogen fertilizer. They do best with a balanced fertilizer high in phosphorous (the second number in the formula). A large nitrogen number causes leaf growth at the expense of your fruit production. Most organic fertilizers don't have a high enough nitrogen level to cause this problem.

What can you do with all those green tomatoes still on the plant when the weather starts to cool down? Start by root pruning your tomato plants. About a foot from the base of your plant, make a circle about six inches deep all the way around. This will help get the ripening stage jumpstarted. You should also keep your old bedspread and sheets handy in case an early frost decides to strike. Put them over the plants in the late afternoon and leave them on until the next morning when the temperature is back to above freezing.