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Putting Your Design on Paper Terry L. Yockey |
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Now that you've chosen a color scheme for your new perennial garden, it is time to start working on your design. The best way to find a good shape and size is to go outside with a garden hose and keep moving it around until you find an outline that pleases you. Using curves will add a more natural quality to your border, but avoid a too "squiggly" look. Instead, practice making larger more gradual and flowing curves. If
you don't have a lot of time for gardening right now or are just beginning to
garden, you may want to start with a more manageable size and add to the garden
later as your enthusiasm grows. Eight
feet across by fifteen feet long seems to be a very manageable size for most
gardeners. At eight feet, you can easily reach inward to care for all
your plants. If you would like a
wider bed, you can also incorporate pathways or stepping-stones into your
design. Once
you have made all these decisions (location, shape, size, etc.) and you are
completely satisfied, sift white flour alongside the hose to mark the outline
and transfer the shape to graph paper. Now
come the real choices. Which plants will you use to fill in your carefully drawn
outline? If you plan your garden
wisely, you will have something blooming spring through fall.
Since most perennials flower for a limited time, the trick is to fill the
bed with plants that have different bloom periods.
I have put together a plant guide that should help you get started. Another good resource to use when you are choosing the perennials for your new bed is the book "Growing Perennials in Cold Climates," by Mike Heger and John Whitman, which has cultural information for over fifty-five commonly grown hardy perennials. (See below for more book suggestions.) When
you are satisfied with your plant selections, add them to the garden outline you
have already drawn on your sketch. The
basic rule for plant placement is to start with short edging plants and work up
to the tallest perennials in the back. If
you stick religiously to this formula, however, you'll end up with an
unnatural, "contrived" look, so don't be afraid to put a few mid-sized
plants--especially those with delicate foliage--among the low plants in front.
When deciding on
spacing, be generous. I know it is tempting to try to cram too many plants into
the drawing, but you will be surprised at how fast they will fill in.
The axiom for perennials is the first year they sleep, second they creep,
and the third they leap. (If you
are determined to have a fuller look for the first few years, you can always
plant annuals in the bare areas until your perennials take off.) Now
find a box of color pencils and using the color guide at the end of the article,
color in all the "splotches" you've used to represent your plants.
In this way, you will be able to get some idea how your color choices
will work together in your new garden. Unfortunately,
since the perennials are blooming at different times, this is seldom a realistic
representation. If you really want to do this right, make several copies of your
garden outline and using one copy for each blooming season (early spring,
mid-summer, etc.), draw in only the plants that have the same bloom period.
Now when you fill in the colors, you can better appreciate how
your garden changes with the season, which pairings work, and which may need a
little reworking. I
can't guarantee that if you follow these instructions step-by-step you won't
ever want to change anything in your perennial bed--of course you will.
I don't know what I would do if one year all my gardens miraculously
appeared exactly as I had always envisioned.
What would I have to look forward to next season?
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