Few edibles are harder to pigeonhole than chile peppers. To start, what’s the proper spelling? Is it chili, chilli, or chile? The South American country is Chile; cooks and chili-cook-offs use chili when referring to the dish chili con carne. The British prefer chilli, as do many folks in parts of the Southwest. To establish standard spelling for gardeners, the National Garden Bureau determined that most seed catalogs use chile when referring to the pepper, and when the pepper is an ingredient in an ethnic dish; that is the standard we’ll use here.

No other edibles have the cachet of chile peppers. There is no macho connotation to eating carrots or tomatoes—no matter the color or size. Not many vegetables have a magazine and festival solely devoted to it. From the smallest cayenne used sparingly as a seasoning to the largest poblano stuffed for a vegetable, chile peppers are outstanding among vegetables.  

INTRODUCTION

What is it about a chile that has captivated humanity for millennia? Certainly, the plants with their ripe fruit in a range of colors from red through orange to yellow, green, purple, brown, and black are beautiful and eye-catching in the garden. Yet, it is in the kitchen that the passion for chiles and their diversity becomes evident. Their flavors—smoky, nutty, or fruity heat—are as varied as their looks, adding subtle to dynamic dimensions to any recipe.

There is the mystique—mostly masculine—about who can eat the hottest peppers without dire consequences. Some experts speculate chile pepper heat (and the subsequent oral pain) stimulates the production of endorphins in the brain, conferring a sense of well being similar to a runner’s “high.”

Depending on the time of year, many grocery stores stock up to half a dozen different kinds of fresh chile peppers. With such availability, why would anyone want to grow their own? Cooks enjoy having a variety of fresh chiles at hand—for their range of flavors, and for more control of the heat in the dishes she/he makes. A gardener grows chiles because they are so rewarding; extremely productive, less prone to diseases than other vegetables, and beautiful. Don’t underestimate the competitive spirit—a chance to grow the hottest pepper on the block.  

HISTORY

All peppers­—scorching chiles to sweet bells—originated in Central and South America. Archeological evidence in Mexico suggests that native peoples gathered wild chiles as far back as 7,000 BC; by 2,500 BC they were cultivating chile peppers.

In his quest to find a shorter trade route to the East Indies in the late 15th century, Christopher Columbus ended up in the Caribbean where he sampled a vegetable grown by the natives. Its fiery taste was reminiscent of the spice black pepper (Piper nigrum) grown in the East Indies. With the flavor connection in mind, Columbus gave the piquant vegetable the moniker “pepper.” He didn’t know that black pepper was the berry of the tropical vine in the genus Piper and that the New World peppers are shrubby plants in the genus Capsicum.

Diego Alvarez Chanca, a physician on Columbus' second voyage to the West Indies in 1493, brought the first chiles back to Spain. From there, the Spaniards and Portuguese traded chile peppers throughout Southeast Asia and India, where they were quickly adopted by cultures already immersed in spicy foods. Use of chile peppers soon spread to the Middle East and throughout much of Europe.

Eventually chiles spread to North America—via Europe or the Caribbean; it’s not clear. Here, chile peppers weren’t an overnight sensation. Records dating to the Colonial days show that both George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, at Mount Vernon and Monticello respectively, grew a cayenne pepper of some type. Chiles were occasionally used in some households, but basically as regional delights. They were hard to find outside New Orleans and the Southwest until the middle of the 20th century.  

NOMENCLATURE

Peppers are members of the nightshade family, Solanaceae, as are tomatoes, potatoes, and eggplants. Chiles—and all other peppers—are in the genus Capsicum. Although there are five species in cultivation, the most common chiles—Anaheims, Jalapeños, Cayennes, Poblanos, and Serranos, and almost all other chile types used in the United States are all Capsicum annuum. The most familiar exceptions are the Habañero types (C. chinense), Tabasco, and a number of the Asian hot peppers designated C. frutescens. Other chiles worth exploring: some of the wild peppers from Mexico and the American Southwest like the notorious chiltepíns and chilipiquíns (C. annuum avicular), (recent taxonomic re-classification to C. glabriusculum), fiery chiles beloved in other countries such as the Peruvian ‘Aji Colorado’ and the Caribbean ‘Scotch Bonnet’ (C. chinensis) and ‘Peru Yellow,’ as well as the milder but very flavorful ‘Peri-Peri’ from Portugal (C. baccatum). 

CLASSIFICATION

There are two ways of classifying chile peppers—by their heat and shape. In 1912, pharmacist Wilbur Scoville invented a test to measure the hotness of peppers by diluting the pepper until the heat was just perceptible on the tongue. The Scoville rating is measured in multiples of 100; he rated a bell pepper 0, while a Japanese chile came in at 20,000 on the Scoville scale.

Following are the 11 most common categories of chile peppers, classified by their fruit shape and their heat (in Scoville Units):

Asian/Thai: Small slender, thin-walled fruits; green ripening to red; no distinct pepper flavor; high to extreme heat (8,000 to <60,000 Scoville Units). Very attractive plants are heavy producers. Use red ripe, fresh, or dried, to add heat to curries, marinades, soups, and stir-fries. (Shape H)

Cayenne: Long, curved peppers with two cells and thin wrinkled skin; generally green but can be yellow or purple; medium to high heat (5,000 to <60,000 Scoville Units). ‘Super Cayenne’ (1990 AAS Winner) is especially vigorous. Harvest red ripe; use fresh or dried to add heat to marinades, pizza, stews, soups, stir-fries, and curries. (Shape G)

Chile/Anaheim/New Mexico/Paprika/Pasilla: Long and tapered, with fairly thin walls and two cells; ripen from green to red; mild to medium heat (1,000 to <8,000 Scoville Units). Many varieties, some of which grow well in short northern climates and at high altitudes. They have mild pepper flavors; best roasted and stuffed, or chopped and added to ethnic dishes; good for drying when red ripe. The Paprikas have deep rich flavors; allow to ripen fully, then dry and grind up. Add to stews and soups and use as a garnish. (Shape A)

Habañero: Small lantern shape; thin-walls; fruity taste and extreme heat (8,000 to <60,000 Scoville Units). Fruiting may be erratic in northern gardens. Use sparingly when fresh in fruit salsas, ceviche, jerk sauces, and Caribbean curries. (Shape D)

Hot Cherry: Tomato-shaped, thick-walled green peppers; ripen to red; medium heat (5,000 to <8,000 Scoville Units). They have a rich, sweet flavor; use for pickles or poach them and stuff with meat or cheese. (Shape I)

Hungarian Wax/Banana: Long and conical, tapering to a point; medium thick walls; ripen yellow to red; mild heat (1,000 to <5,000 Scoville Units). Adaptable to many climates. Use yellow or red ripe for pickles and chutney, or add them to salsas and fried dishes. (Shape E)

Jalapeño: Short and stubby with thick meaty walls; deep green; medium to high heat (5,000 to <60,000 Scoville Units). Numerous varieties include Jalapeños for short northern climates, selections with yellow and orange stages of ripeness, and others that are highly productive. Harvest Jalapeños green; use fresh in salsas, pickle, and grill and add to tacos or burritos. Smoke dry—either green or red ripe—to make chipotles. (Shape C)

Ornamental/hot edible: Upright, small, round or tapered, and thin walled; medium to high heat (5,000 to <60,000 Scoville Units). Bred in a variety of colors and with different shaped peppers: ‘Black Pearl’ (2006 AAS Winner with black fruit), and ‘Super Chili’ (1988 AAS Winner; small red chiles borne in large numbers). Taste these peppers cautiously first, as some are bitter, some are exceptionally hot; pickle to add heat to salsas, marinades, and soups. (Many shapes)

Poblano (called Ancho when dried): Flat and round, slightly tapered with a blunt end; thin walls with three cells; dark green; mild heat (1,000 to <5,000 Scoville Units). Harvest green for roasting and stuffing; dry when red ripe and grind up for basic salsas and moles. (Shape B)

Santa Fe Grande: Medium-sized, tapered and conical; medium thick walls; yellow-to-red; medium to high heat (5,000 to <60,000 Scoville Units). Use fresh when ripe; pickle or roast and add to quesadillas and tacos. A new Santa Fe Grande type is 2006 AAS Winner ‘Mariachi,’ a mild chile pepper with outstanding flavor when yellow or red. (Shape C)

Serrano: Slim, slightly club-shaped with medium thick walls; green; rich flavor; medium to high heat (5,000 to <60,000 Scoville Units). Use fresh in the green stage or fry or grill and use as a garnish or add to salsas, tacos, guacamole, and other traditional Mexican dishes. (Shape F) 

CULTURE/GROWING CONDITIONS

The majority of chile varieties offered in nurseries and from seed companies are quite domesticated, some are hybrids. They grow in a similar manner to bell peppers and many other vegetables, but a number, like some of the Peruvian, Bolivian, and the bird peppers, walk a bit on the wild side.

Under some growing conditions, the lack of flowers and fruit set may pose a problem. Occasionally they don’t produce flowers—more often in short summer climates, especially in “wilder” chile varieties. Experts speculate that less domesticated varieties need the cooler weather of early fall to set fruit; and/or flowering may be triggered as the days get shorter in September. Avoid this problem by growing more domesticated chiles (‘Hungarian Hot Wax,’ ‘Cherry Bomb,’ ‘Marbles,’ and ‘Bulgarian Carrot’), especially some of the new F1 hybrids including ‘Serrano Del Sol,’ ‘Ancho 211,’ ‘Thai Dragon,’ and ‘Conchos’ Jalapeño. In cool weather areas, prolong the growing-harvesting season by growing chiles in containers; bring them inside when frost is threatened.

Blossom drop, which results in little to no fruit set, occurs when the temperatures are above 90ºF during the day or below 60ºF at night. When the weather is more suitable, fruits will set. Sometimes pollination is poor, in that case hand pollinate a number with a Q-tip.  

PLANNING IDEAS TO GROW THE HOTTEST CHILE PEPPER

It is easy to get started growing chile peppers. Many nurseries have young starter plants available in the spring; Jalapeños, Hungarian Wax, Hot Cherry, Anaheims, and an occasional ornamental pepper plant are most common.

Choose sturdy looking plants with dark green foliage. Avoid those with yellowed leaves and long spindly growth as they generally fail to thrive. For a greater choice of chiles, many gardeners, including the thrill-seeking fire-eaters, order seeds from mail-order seed companies that offer a plethora of ethnic and specialty chile peppers.

Some folks want to grow the hottest pepper on the block while others prefer their peppers on the mild side. Obviously the heat varies with the variety; anyone with a delicate palate would not tolerate even the mildest Habañero. Yet, it is possible to control the heat to a degree depending on your climate, the growing method, and by timing the harvest. For spicy peppers, start by selecting hot types from the list above. Consider the growing conditions: Peppers cultivated in a hot climate with days in the 95ºF range are spicier than those grown where days are in the 70ºs. Drought-stricken chiles are hotter than those grown with lots of water. If you yearn for spicy peppers and live in a cool climate, cover the soil with black plastic mulch or grow peppers in containers on a concrete or brick patio in full sun. To turn up the fire, keep the water and nitrogen fertilizer to a minimum. Alternatively, if you prefer milder peppers, keep the plants well watered—but not soggy—and provide afternoon shade in hot climates. A general rule of thumb is the riper the chile, the hotter it is. That said, ripe peppers have a different flavor than unripe ones. Let your personal taste and the recipe determine when to pick each pepper.  

STARTING SEEDS

Chile plants are slow to get going, so start pepper plants indoors a few weeks earlier than tomatoes. Sow the seeds about 8 to 12 weeks before the last frost date.

Sow several seeds 1/4-inch deep in 2-to 3-inch earth-friendly containers such as peat pots filled with lightly moistened seed starting mix. Water well and place the pots in a well-lighted, warm area (80º to 85ºF) such as under fluorescent lights. To prevent the seedlings from damping off, keep the soil damp but not wet, and provide good air circulation around the plants. Feed the seedlings with half-strength water-soluble nitrogen fertilizer every two weeks. When seedlings are about two inches tall, thin to one plant per pot by cutting out the smaller ones. Once the plants are about five inches tall and the nighttime temperatures are above 60ºF, harden the plants off by slowly acclimatizing the peppers to the garden.

After two weeks, plant them in the garden. Peppers need full sun, rich soil (amended with compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold) and good drainage. Allow two feet between plants. If the peppers are starting to produce flower buds, pinch them off and continue to do this for 1 to 2 weeks; this forces the plants to put their energy into growing leaves and roots. Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of organic matter. Mulch keeps weed growth down and maintains soil moisture. Stake varieties that grow taller than 2 feet. To avoid problems with cutworms (they can chew young seedlings off at the soil line) place two-inch-tall cardboard or aluminum foil collars around the new plants—with 1-inch below soil level and 1-inch above.

Keep the plants lightly moist, but not soggy. Pull any weeds if they appear. Feed the plants with an all-purpose water-soluble fertilizer about six weeks after transplanting and again if the plants start to look pale or the leaves are small.  

DISEASES AND PESTS

Chile peppers are generally quite healthy. Pests are an occasional problem. Tiny green aphids sometimes cluster on the tips of branches. In large numbers, they suck plant juices, which deform the leaves and steal energy from the plant. Aphids can also spread deadly viruses. A strong spray of water from the garden hose can knock aphids off the plants. Caterpillars, including corn earworms and corn borers, destroy the fruits; hornworms eat both fruits and leaves. For information on controlling any pest infestation, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service or ask for advice at a local nursery.

Chile peppers are prone to a few virus diseases. There are quite a few viruses in peppers; the most common is tobacco mosaic virus, which causes mottled yellow leaves and misshapen fruits. There are no cures for viruses so the plants must be destroyed. Prevent the disease from spreading by controlling aphids.  

CAUTIONS

Capsaicin (cap-say-a-sin), an alkaloid compound unique to chile peppers, gives them their heat. It creates a pleasure/pain response in the mouth, but it burns the skin and eyes.

Always use caution when handling hot peppers. To protect your hands, use disposable latex gloves. Never touch your face near your eyes, mouth, or nasal passages. Capsaicin is produced primarily in the veins/placental tissue of the pepper, but with an especially hot variety, take care when harvesting. If you accidentally get pepper juice in your eye immediately wash it out with clean cool water. And if you eat too fiery a pepper, get some relief by eating yogurt, ice cream, or milk.  

HARVESTING

Most chiles are green when unripe and turn yellow, orange, red, or brown when fully ripe. Individual chiles are considered most flavorful at different stages. For instance, in Mexico, Jalapeños and Serranos are preferable when green, and Cayenne types when red ripe. For fresh eating, it is a matter of personal taste; for drying, fully ripe peppers are best. Harvest chiles once they feel firm and get a glossy sheen. Cut the fruit off with clippers, as the branches of pepper plants are brittle and break off readily. 

PRESERVING

Dry thin-walled chiles in a warm, dry place or dehydrator until brittle dry. Store the dried chiles in airtight containers. If meal moths frequent your kitchen, store the peppers in zipper-style freezer bags in the freezer. Roast Poblano, Anaheim, and New Mexico chiles and then peel and put in zippered plastic freezer bags and freeze for up to six months. 

CONTAINERS

All types of chile peppers can be grown in containers. Large Poblano, New Mexico, Anaheim, and most hybrids are best grown in large containers, such as a half wine barrel. Grow smaller, more compact ornamental peppers in 10” to 12” containers. 

REFERENCE

A valuable resource for chile gardeners is The Chile Pepper Institute at New Mexico State in Las Cruces, New Mexico (www.chilepepperinstitute.org), which provides much technical information on growing chiles. 

The National Garden Bureau recognizes Rosalind Creasy as the author of this fact sheet. We wish to thank the chile pepper experts who reviewed our text before publication. Grace Romero of W. Atlee Burpee & Co.; Heather Kibble of Seminis Vegetable Seeds; and Eric Votava of Johnny's Selected Seeds greatly assisted our efforts to provide accurate information.

This fact sheet is provided as a service from the National Garden Bureau. The National Garden Bureau is a non-profit organization and recognizes the seed company members that generously donate funds for this educational program.